The reason I’ve delayed this post almost a month is because I just recently made a movie of my ascent. I’ve only told a few people, but when I was down in Hueco at the end of December, I put up a new V12 and caled it Sunny Side Up. This problem is located just down and left from “Le Retour de Goupil”. It’s literally within 10 seconds from the ending of that problem. You just run to the left and down one boulder. The boulder problem itself is only a handful of moves with the crux right off the ground. I started inverted and I think people should start like that, you make a pretty easy cross through and then you have to hand foot match, grab a tiny intermediate and make a throw to a jug. From there, you just have to have enough core muscles to hold the one arm lock off match. From there, you go dynamic to a good pinch and lock off to the jug. The landing is flat and it stays in the shade for most of the day. I decided to call it Sunny Side Up because a good friend of mine, Sonnie Trotter found the problem and showed it to me. After first glance, he thought the problem was going to be upwards of V14 but after climbing the problem, I thought it fit the V12 grade. The movie I made is posted just below and It’s only the second climbing movie I’ve ever made so I’m sorry if it’s not the best movie you’ve seen this year. Enjoy… Just click the play button.
This is the high def version of Simon’s Video. It took me a little bit of figuring out to get used to it.
You may or may not have known but I brought a video camera down to Hueco Tanks while I was there. During my 11 day trip, I managed to record about an hour of video. I’ve been trying to get the video onto my computer so I can start making little short movies of boulder problems we did while we were down there. I want to show everyone to FA of Sunny Side Up which should be up in a few days. Since I’ve never made a movie before, I took footage of Simon Parton doing Focus. Focus is a semi highball boulder problem on East Mountain. It weighs in at V10. It took me about half an hour to an hour of editing and figuring out how to put words and music. I know the music isn’t very good. This first video clip is just about me learning, and hey, I thought I did a pretty good job. In the next couple of weeks, I’ll have myself climbing Diaphenous Sea (V12), Jamie Chong attempting Luthor (V12) and myself again doing Sunny Side Up (V12 FA). Simon Parton climbing Focus V10