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    Notes and advice from Sean McColl.

“Pure” trailer

This past summer, I stopped by Magic Wood just before the world cup in Imst. Luckily Chuck Fryberger and Nalle Hukkataival were there and I got to climb with them for a few days. Chuck was mostly just filming Nalle on climbing cool looking problems including a 20 foot V9 slab. Anyways, Chuck was making a movie called “Pure” and I’ve put the trailer in just below. Since all the climbs Nalle was trying were totally new to me, it was really fun just trying them all and getting shown around the forest. The forest of Magic Wood is very similar to Squamish, there’s trees everywhere and the boulders are pretty scattered and sometimes a bit epic to find. During my 3 day visit, we tried boulder problems ranging from V8-V15. Mostly I spotted, but on occasion, I actually tried and topped some boulders. Maybe one day, I’ll be able to climb as hard as the boulderers in this video!!
PURE – A Bouldering Flick by Chuck Fryberger OFFICIAL TRAILER from Chuck Fryberger on Vimeo.

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Sunny Side Up (V12)

The reason I’ve delayed this post almost a month is because I just recently made a movie of my ascent. I’ve only told a few people, but when I was down in Hueco at the end of December, I put up a new V12 and caled it Sunny Side Up. This problem is located just down and left from “Le Retour de Goupil”. It’s literally within 10 seconds from the ending of that problem. You just run to the left and down one boulder. The boulder problem itself is only a handful of moves with the crux right off the ground. I started inverted and I think people should start like that, you make a pretty easy cross through and then you have to hand foot match, grab a tiny intermediate and make a throw to a jug. From there, you just have to have enough core muscles to hold the one arm lock off match. From there, you go dynamic to a good pinch and lock off to the jug. The landing is flat and it stays in the shade for most of the day. I decided to call it Sunny Side Up because a good friend of mine, Sonnie Trotter found the problem and showed it to me. After first glance, he thought the problem was going to be upwards of V14 but after climbing the problem, I thought it fit the V12 grade. The movie I made is posted just below and It’s only the second climbing movie I’ve ever made so I’m sorry if it’s not the best movie you’ve seen this year. Enjoy… Just click the play button.

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My First Concussion

As most of you have probably already found out, i had a pretty funny day skiing up Whistler on saturday. We woke up at a nice time of 6am. Gary Foster said that he’d leave the parking lot beside the churge at 7am so we didn’t want to be late. I had a little breakfast and Vikki Weldon came to pick me up at half past. We ate quickly then set out. Remarkably, we beat Gary up there. After a few minutes of waiting, we drove off to Sarah’s parents house to pick up Jamie Chong and Sarah Austin. After a much deserved stop at Starbucks in West Van, we started driving off to Whistler. Even though I had only gotton 6 hours of sleep before, I felt remarkably good. It was the first time I’d be skiing on a mountain that could cal itself a real mountain. It took us over an hour to get there and after a un orthodox scream by Sarah pointing Gary to the right parking spot, we were there. After waiting for over half an hour for Jamie to sort out his pass with Sarah, we were off. We loaded one of the 6 person gondolas and everyone got ready. At the top of that, we put on our individual skis and boards and loaded another chair. When we finally got the top of that chair, we figured we’d hit up one run to warm up and then take the Peak to Peak Chairlift. It just so happened that the terrain park was just there. We hit a few little jumps testing the air and how we felt that day. I saw a jump on the side with a giant round pallet going up through the middle. I remember Gary telling me that I was just supposed to tap it with the back parts of my skis. I thought it’d be pretty easy and I had decent speed going into it.

I took the jump, cleared my landing by at least 10 feet and started desending onto flat. I knew instantly that it wasn’t the best fall. I got ready for the worst and I thought I’d just lose my skis. About 5 minutes later, I woke up with the Ski Patrol around me. Supposedely for the past few minutes I had just been convulsing involuntarily. It took them around 30 minutesto pack me up and ski me down. I barely remember the ski down, and all i remember was being too restrained and putting my hands down. We took an amblance to the nearest hospital where I was finally able to talk. We spend 30 minutes in the hospital before they’d release me. I thought I was good to go, but I was clearly pretty damamged. The next couple of days, I couldn’t do anything. I had a hugely swollen lip as well as the whole side of my face. Within the next day, scabs appeared on my forehead, beside my right eye and on either side of my lips on the right side. If you took a picture of the left side of my face, it’d look pretty normal, the right…. another question. It’s not been 3 days since my accident and I feel a lot better. There’s still a few things that I don’t get right away but mostly it seems a little slower. The past couple of days have been brutal. I’ve tried watching movies, tv and playing video games, but most time, the tv just hurts my head. I went to work today and so far It’s been not so bad. My first back at the climbing gym will come tonight and I’m not sure what will happen.

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