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    Notes and advice from Sean McColl.

A Very Busy August

It’s been a few weeks now since the Youth World Championships in Canada and I’m still going through what a cool event it was. [singlepic id=569 w=550 h=350 float=center] For those of you didn’t know, the championships were hosted at “The Boulders” which is a gigantic wall in the middle of Central Saanich, British Columbia. I added a link to their Facebook page if you want to check it out. This is the first wall of this magnitude in Canada mainly because it has a huge 50 foot door which opens to allow a full gaggle of spectators. More and more this becomes important while hosting big events. For something like a championships, it is required. [singlepic id=598 w=500 h=200 float=center]

Mathilde in the Gorges Du Tarn

I was one of the assistant coaches for the Canadian team and spend 9 days with the rest of the coaches, our team manager and of course the whole team. The group of athletes who were brought together by this event was that of a very cohesive nature. They all got along and from what I observed all had a great time. Some were satisfied with their results, others were not. Some surpassed what they expected to achieve and some didn’t care on the overall results as long as their climbing felt satisfactory. The biggest thing I noticed especially at this event was the number of volunteers available. They were all given big orange jackets so they were hard to miss. These competitions aren’t possible without the help of the volunteers so I thank you all! It’s also a great achievement for Canada being the first Youth Championships in North America. After that event, I was in Squamish for one climbing day where I managed to redpoint “Smell The Glove”. You can check out the small blurb I posted here on my Facebook Athlete Page. Like it please!! [singlepic id=572 w=250 h=320 float=right] One week after that was the World Cup in Munich which I blogged about here! I also achieved my first bouldering overall podium coming 3rd in the general rankings. I’ve been on the podium in the overall rankings (lead, speed, and bouldering) but have just missed in the specific disciplines. I found that it was a nice sense of fulfillment being up there with Dimitrii Sharafutdinov and Jakob Schubert. The portrait photo just to the side here was taken by: Bram Berkien. The weekend after Munich was spent climbing on rock again in the Gorges Du Tarn. It’s a climbing destination pretty much in the middle of southern France with a history of very long routes. [singlepic id=562 w=500 h=350 float=center] I’m not especially drawn to long routes but the rock is nice, the routes are nice and the weather is good. What more can I really ask for… I had been there a month before and checked out a few lines; this time I came back looking to try something hard! [singlepic id=575 w=320 h=450 float=right] With me on the trip was Mathilde Becerra, Pierre-Olivier Dupuy and photographer Sam Challeat. Throughout the weekend, I got to try a couple of projects but mostly stayed in the Oasif sector. Here’s a sneak peak of one of the photos Sam took! There was an 8c (5.14b) called Déssechement Planétaire from a past RocTrip that looked really cool I wanted to try. I got the beta from a climber who was working the route. The moves were pretty simple, looked hard and I knew the crux was a dyno at the end. The line started on big moves on good holds to a knee bar rest. From there, you headed slightly right through hard big moves leading to the final dyno. There no place really to rest, but every 3rd or so hold was good enough to clip and chalk up. [singlepic id=574 w=500 h=350 float=center] On my flash attempt, everything felt like it was going well. I cruised through the beginning, got half way and was just under the dyno. I set up pretty well, got my feet in place and lept. I knew just as I was jumping that I hadn’t jumped hard enough. My hand kind of touched the hold, but I knew it wasn’t deep enough. I was laughing as I was falling but overall pretty happy with my flash go. I got back on the route, did the rest of the moves and lowered. My second go was 15-20 minutes later and I fell at the dyno again! I guess I wasn’t very psyched leading up because the moves felt harder. I almost stuck the dyno but just as I felt like I might stick it, my left hand came off and I was soon falling. I forced myself to take a 30 minutes rest and sent the line third go! Everything clicked pretty well on the send. I felt good; I skipped one precise clip and stuck the move with both hands staying on the wall. [singlepic id=573 w=500 h=350 float=center] I also tried a project just to the right of the line and figured out all of the moves. The guidebook says it’s in the 9th degree so I’m pretty psyched to go back and try it some more! After Gorges Du Tarn, I went back to Toulouse, rested for a day and too off to Arco. The first two days at Arco have passed and Mathilde made it to the next round in not only Lead but also in Boulder! Crushing it! More to follow; my competition starts tomorrow! Going for the Speed World Cup as well as Lead and Bouldering. It’s like the World Championships all over again 🙂

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    Bifi

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    Good luck, man!

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