Around the world in 14 days
It’s been a while since I’ve sat down and wrote although I’ve been pretty busy. After my last competition in Vail, I’ve had some nice down time to start training for the lead season. After Vail, I had 2 solid weeks of training before leaving on my world trip.
The trip was not for my personal climbing adventures but rather the IFSC and the Jr. Canadian National Team. On June 25th, I flew to Singapore for the IOC’s International Athletes’ Forum and at the end of June; I flew to Victoria for the Canadian Jr. Team’s National Training camp. Just after that, I had a couple days in my hometown of Vancouver and then back to Toulouse.
The Athletes’ Forum (AF) was a great experience; I got to see the athletes’ perspective of the Olympics and also their suggestions on how the games could be better. Because Sport Climbing didn’t make the top-3 sports in the shortlist, I was there as a big learning experience. My goals for the weekend were:
Because our Athletes’ Commission is somewhat smaller than a lot of the sports at the meeting, it was a great time to learn. After the two days of ongoing meetings, I met some great people, took a photo with the President of the IOC Jacques Rogge and most importantly learned a tremendous amount about Athlete Commissions and everything that comes along with it. I also participated in their brainstorming workshops on how to make the games better from the Athletes’ Perspective.
After leaving Singapore, I was on the way back to Canada. With some stop overs and a missed flight in Vancouver, I eventually arrived. I spent Canada day with a few climbers from the Boulders Academy and it was a great way to get to know some of them and re-organize my thoughts for the training camp.
The next day the training camp was in full swing. Our agenda was:
- How to make our Athletes’ Commission better
- How to recruit working members
- How to give them ongoing goals
- What to look for / avoid
The 5 days were pretty intense and the coaches worked super well together to give them perspectives from all different types of coaches. My strength lies in my competition experience and knowledge of current international rules, regulations, route setters and processes. My weakness is my ability to communicate all those points to aspiring climbers. I find that the more questions people ask me, the better I understand the way that I prepare for all those things.
Over the past year or two, I’ve been able to harness those thoughts and communicate them much more effectively than before. It probably also has to do with the fact that I think about what I do much more now. For our “cardio” workouts, we went swimming once, and had a spin class for the other. One of them was also more of a conditioning workout, but because we sweat so much doing it, it could probably double as cardio. They were very interested in doing leg exercises which for climbers was exhausting! We tried a system called “TRX”. It was pretty cool and I was psyched to get one of the pieces of equipment, but then looked it up on the internet and it was 180$…. oh my. I didn’t purchase one.
After the training camp, I spent 2 days in Vancouver with my family and friends. I was only there for less than 48 hours so I didn’t get to see a lot of people. I managed to get out to Squamish with Jamie Chong and Gary Foster but that’s all the climbing I did. I flew back to Toulouse a day later and I’ve been training ever since.
The break for those 2 weeks was nice, but I knew it was time to get back into training. I set a sort of diet for myself to keep me motivated and went back to the grind. My goal when at this stage in training is to do 80 hard moves in a row. My strength right now is my power (coming from bouldering season). My weakness is my ability to recover and find my flow. I train 5 days a week working on getting those first 40 moves out of the way and fighting through the next 30-40. The first week sucked… but now I’ve gotten better. In the last week, I’ve found my groove and I have one more week until I leave. During the Briancon weekend, I did a bouldering training session before the weekend, and then spent 3 days in the Gorges du Tarn. It was great, spending at least 10 minutes on each route, enjoying being outside.
I feel that after this week, I’m going to be fully prepared for the lead season. I can do 40 moves (any moves) pretty well without getting too pumped and if I can recover a bit in those, I can just keep going. I feel strong from my couple days of boulder training and even snuck in a campus board workout and a few dead hangs. I’m still on par with the bouldering system times 🙂
Check back in a week, when I’ll be in Colombia for the world games!
- Da- Traiy 1 ning AM, lunch, Training PM, Cardio
- Day 2 – Training AM, lunch, Training PM, Cardio
- Day 3 – Rest day (cardio, fun activity)
- Day 4 – Training AM, lunch, Training PM, Cardio
- Day 5 – Training AM, lunch, Training PM, Finish
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