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    Notes and advice from Sean McColl.

Campusing, Stretching and Planning

This past week has been hugely beneficial on a few different aspects. To sum it up, I’m continuing my campus training, I’ve started stretching and continuing to round out my 2013 season. I’ll start with the campusing because I know a lot of people have been waiting for this new video. Tonight, I’m going to the C.R.E.P.S training facility in Toulouse to film the whole training session. They put up a new wall in which I went to the grand opening and although I wasn’t climbing at the time, I saw they had an awesome campus board. I’ll be bringing my SLR to the gym tonight and devote a couple of hours to film the movie. I’ve picked out 10 or so exercises that I’m going to demonstrate; the exercises vary from being pretty easy and standard to a bit more technical with more precision and dexterity involved. I already did a filming session while in Vancouver but had trouble with the old school tape recordings so this time should be a breeze. The space I’ll be using will also be bigger with less people there I hope. Although I miss my home in Vancouver, I love living in France and traveling around Europe all year. [singlepic id=485 w=600 h=700 float=center]   The second point that I feel is a big step in my training is stretching. I always tell people to work on their weaknesses and I’d be a hypocrite if I didn’t start this. I’ve found that flexibility has actually hindered me in world cups and every time I get to a move like that, I always wish I was a bit more flexible. Now there are a few different types of flexibility and I’m not bad, maybe actually good, in some aspects. For instance, I’m comfortable putting my feet up very high or far whether it be a toe or a heel hook. I’m also comfortable putting my feet very close to my hands and initiating dynamic movement. Where I really fall behind is how far I can physically stem in a corner. At the beginning of this year, when I sat on the ground, I had trouble bringing my legs out past 90 degrees. When I was younger and training with the team, we had specific stretches that we would hold for 10 minutes to actually work on this type of flexibility I’ve now re-incorporated this into my training and I hold a specific stretch for 10 minutes after climbing every time I’m at the gym. Once I started doing it, it became part of my routine and I even look forward to it now. It’s easy to measure progress, but it goes so slow! The stretch I do is as follows:
  1. Lay on my back with bum against the wall and legs in the air
  2. Stretch my legs down towards the ground on opposite sides
  3. Hold for 10 minutes while re-adjusting further every minute or so
I starting stretching for the first time on January 26th but doing it 4-5 days a week should give me more flexibility by the time I need it in April. [singlepic id=484 w=300 h=300 float=left] On a random note, when I got back from Vancouver back to Toulouse, I cut all my caffeine consumption. I was happy with the result which can be summed up with this quickmeme I made. I’ll stop drinking decaf everything at the end of the week which will have completely purged it from my system. As far as competitions go, my first one is looking more and more likely to be a qualifying lead competition at the end of March. It might be very funny because I won’t have done any string of moves longer than 10 since Kranj. Luckily, I think I only need to make finals to advance to French Nationals at the end of May. It’s nice to just chill out at the apartment, train and relax a bit. I wish I could climb a bit outdoors but I dedicated this time to training; that being said, if a good opportunity to climb on rock arises, I’m sure I’d take it up. Hoping to edit my campus movie on Friday so count on my video in the next week!  

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Comments (4)

  • Avatar

    Micah

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    Hey, what are the negative effects of caffeine that you want to avoid (other than dehydration)?

    Reply

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    David

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    Perhaps the following sentiment is a factor, “Stimulants are borrowed energy; it’s not real and has to be repaid.” – Lee Haney

    Reply

  • Avatar

    ole

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    If you want to learn something about stretching, mobility and how it interacts/can help with your overall performance, be sure to check out http://www.mobilitywod.com
    It is the website of Kelly Starret, an awesome PT giving lots of worthy information over a series of small videos.

    Reply

  • Avatar

    Art

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    I wish my biggest weakness was flexibility. Ha ha.

    But really thanks for posting the training vids. They give me motivation which is probably the biggest factor that keeps people from training.

    Reply

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