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    Notes and advice from Sean McColl.

Campus Board Training Video

I managed to get the video completed after filming on Tuesday! Thursday was dedicated to the interview portion and then I spent the better half of Friday editing it all together. I’m by no way a pro using video editing software but I still find it really fun! If you missed my first one, it can be found HERE. After finishing this second one, I’m inspired to do more, but I’d love a few ideas if you have some! I hope you enjoy the video, if you have questions about the video, you can ask them here or on Youtube and if you have other random questions, I have an “ask Sean McColl” page which can be found HERE.

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Comments (22)

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    climber

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    Great video!!

    My question: do you continue with other types of training (maybe bouldering) at the end of campusing or this is it for that training session?

    Thanks and sorry because of my imperfect english. 😉

    Reply

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      Sean McColl

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      thanks! If I do 2 sets of what I described in the “about” section of the video, that’s all the climbing I’ll do that day. I usually follow it up with conditioning (lots of abs). If I only do 1 set, I can do a good hour of bouldering before or after the set.

      Reply

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    theapedoctor

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    Hey sean, thanks for releasing some of your training secrets for us newbs. quick question. Since this is campus training, do you ever campus actual boulder routes or one something other than a campus board? Do you think there is any benefit for doing it? And I always wondered if there is some other material that would be less painful on the fingers than a woody. [i guess maybe the famous bachar ladder].

    Reply

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      Sean McColl

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      I almost never campus normal boulder problems. Sometimes I’ll make campus boulders on the wall but that’s as far as that goes. A big problem with campusing boulders is that if you throw in an undercling, it gets very hard very fast. As for material, I don’t really know. At one gym, the campus board is made from hold material, at the one I filmed at, it was wood…

      Reply

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        DaveH

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        Wood holds are by far the least painful surfaces to climb on in my opinion.

        Reply

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    MKS

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    Hi, awesome video. Watched quite a lot of this kind and it is one of the best!
    One question though: how often do you do campus board training? Do you integrated it in normal training like once per week all the time. Or do you do periods of campusing, like campusing 2-3 times per week for 3-4 weeks followed by 3-4 weeks of non campus board training?

    Thanks in advance and kee rockin!

    Reply

    • Avatar

      Sean McColl

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      Great question. I only do campus board training at the beginning of the season. I’m currently trying to physically build some muscle and later on I’ll refine that into actual bouldering strength. I started halfway through January and I’ll stop in the first couple weeks in March. This will have given me 6-8 weeks of this type of training about 2 times a week.

      During the competition season, I will rarely be on the campus board.

      Reply

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    George

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    Hi Sean! Thank you very much for the video and the effort you put into blogging!

    If we can borrow some more of your training wisdom, I would like to ask you for a few more tips 🙂 In those 6-8 weeks of specific training (i.e., campusing), do you have any easy weeks, for example, 3 weeks of hard training followed by one easier week? And one not so campus-related question, when you switch to endurance training for lead competitions, do you still do some training to maintain strength/power or you just do endurance-things?

    Thank you in advance!

    Reply

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      Sean McColl

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      I never take weeks where I do “less” training than others. I’ll tone it down for the 2 weeks coming up into the season, and I’ll only ever do less training if I feel I’m close to becoming injured or my muscles are so sore, I can’t physically climb very well.

      Reply

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    appalachianmudsquid

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    great video. with clear and concise directions. i am currently trying to help train my girlfriend and she seems to excel in nonspecific and specific climbing drills, yet struggles to climb logically. i know that simply climbing more would help her technique, body positioning, and beta synthesis but any ideas on simple skill drills i could have her work on. im considering filming her climb or forcing her to watch more climbing movies to simple observe top level climbers doing what they do best. keep up the professionalism and youll set yourself up with a life long career. best of luck.

    Reply

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      Sean McColl

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      If you can, have her set a boulder problem. I know that not everyone can even do this because almost all gyms won’t let anyone route set. If you can’t actually screw holds on the wall, get her to make up boulder problems with the holds already there. She’ll learn where her body needs to be and also where the feet need to be. Watching movies isn’t bad, but real life is much better. Get to her to watch other climbers around her level and see WHY they can climb some boulders that she struggles on. Always challenge her to learn the new types of movements as well.

      Good luck with it!

      Reply

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    Masoud

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    Hi sean,
    Thanks for your informing video. I have a question regarding the structure of your campus session. If i am not mistaken you do one set of each campus trainings and then move on to the next. What about doing them back to back, I mean doing each training 2 times and finish it all in one set of 2reps.
    And another question:can 2sets of each campus training bring about the desired adaptation or one should plan for more sets?
    Thanks for your time and attention,
    Good luck

    Reply

    • Avatar

      Sean McColl

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      I think that doing 30 campus exercises without a 10-20 minute break is just too hard. You might be able to do it, but the second half of them aren’t going to be nearly productive enough. Your body needs that time to recovery. I might even suggest doing 3 different sets of only 10 exercises. For your second question, really I don’t know. I’ve never ever done more than 2 sets of 15 or 3 sets of 10 (30 in total). Usually by the 20-30 exercise, my skin is starting to get pretty sore and I’m definitely not campusing as far. I would imagine that if you can do more than what I’ve described, you might be able to make the moves bigger or the campus board smaller!

      Reply

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    John

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    Hi Sean !
    I would like to know what is the model ot the pants that you are wearing in the video. I can see that they are Mammut’s, but which model exactly 🙂

    Reply

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      Sean McColl

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      They are the Mammut Rock Pants! My favourite pants for competing.

      Reply

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    Egor Astakhov

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    Thank you!

    Reply

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    Jakub

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    Nice video – thanks for sharing!
    One remark: I would really like to see subtitles – It would help to analyze presented ideas and reuse in planning own training.
    Regarding presented training – It looks like you train with many repetitions in relatively small amount of time. It is supposed to benefit in short endurance. Have you ever tried to add load and do some around 100% moves with 1-2 repetitions? That is quite common to build pure instant power, but I would like to see your thoughts on that.

    Reply

    • Avatar

      Sean McColl

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      Subtitles with what I’m saying, or subtitles for time of exercises and the training stuff?
      I usually do many repetitions in smaller amount of times because that’s what I’m aiming for. When I’m doing pure power, I do 3 move boulder problems where they’re all supposed to be at my max level. I have not trained with weights to do bouldering in a long time, I would only think about it for abs exercises.

      Reply

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        Jakub

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        Thanks for answers about training.
        I meant subtitles of what you say :), however some additional text (summary of exercise), may be also nice.

        Reply

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    paul

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    Thanks Sean! Great ideas for training. Please keep making more videos. Very inspiring.

    Reply

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