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    Notes and advice from Sean McColl.

Training Log, March 31

I know it’s been a while since I’ve posted anything but I haven’t been doing a lot. I’m getting ready for my summer trip back to Europe and I’ve been training, working and hanging out with friends. Last weekend I went to Leavenworth with Jamie Chong, Sarah Austin, Vikki Weldon and Rich Kupskay. The boulders down there are really amazing. They’re pretty spread out so you either want the guide book or a good tour guide. We went to 5 or 6 different areas in two days and climbed on around 40 boulders. There are some boulders that aren’t in the guidebook or old grades but I thought the grading there was really good and the moves were really fun. The rock is granite down there, but contrary to Squamish, there’s tons of holds and there’s not many lip traverses. This blog is going to be about my training day. Yesterday I went to the gym in the middle of the day so I didn’t have anyone to climb with. I decided to try and do every boulder problem in the gym and I figured I’d log it and maybe try to do it again with the same problems. I set a couple of rules before I started. It’s a lot easier to just warm up, do all the hard problems and work your way down, so I decided that I must complete the one wall before I move to the next one. I also said I had to do the problems on each wall from easiest to hardest, like a competition. Obviously if you fall, the boulder doesn’t count and you have to redo it. I took a clipboard downstairs and during my training, I logged how many problems I did in a row, how many moves they were, and how long it took me. I also wrote down how long it took me to do the whole wall. I also took 5 minute rest in between each wall. In this blog, whenever I talk about how long it took me to do a set of boulder, that includes how much rest I took after the last set. So if I do 7 boulders in 5 minutes and the last 2 boulders in 15 minute, it’s because when I jumped off the wall after doing the first 7, I logged the time, then i rested for 12 minutes and took 3 minutes to do the last 2 boulders which adds up to 15 minutes. In our gym we have 6 different bouldering walls: we have TV West, North, Clock, Back Cave, Whale Belly and Main Cave. I warmed up by doing 55 moves across the bouldering wall then I started in the main cave. I did the first 7 problems for a total of 60 moves in 18 minutes including my warmup. I did the last 2 problems for 18 moves in 7 minutes. The whole Main Cave consisted of 9 boulders and 78 moves which took me 25 minutes. Next wall was Whale Belly. The first 3 problems (26 moves) took me 3 minutes, the next 4 (36 moves) 7 minutes, the next 4 (36 moves) 8 minutes. The last 4 problems (44 moves) took me 28 minutes to do. I knew that the Whale Belly was probably one of the hardest walls because the last 4 problems are pretty long and hard. The whole Whale Belly consisted of 15 problems (142 moves) and it took me 48 minutes. Next wall was Back Cave. The first 7 problems (78 moves) took me 11 minutes and the last problem (15 moves) took me another 6 minutes. The Back Cave consisted of 8 boulders (93 moves) and it took me 17 minutes. TV Walls were next and I started on West. The first 5 problems (52 moves) took me 4 minutes to do. THe next 2 problems (26 moves) took me 7 minutes to do. The last problem which was 15 moves took me another 6 minutes to do. In total, TV West consisted of 10 boulders (96 moves) and it took me 22 minutes. TV North next. I did the first 6 boulders (52 moves) in 7 minutes. I did the next 3 boulders (25 moves) in 10 minutes and I did the last boulder (8 moves) in 5 minutes. The whole TV North consisted of 10 problems (85 moves) and it took me 22 minutes. Lastly was the Clock Wall. There’s no hard boulders on this wall because it’s all vertical with a couple of features. I did all 7 problems (57 moves) in 6 minutes. In total, with my 5 minute rest per wall it took me 2 hours and 45 minutes to do all the boulder problems. The Edge as of March 31 consists of 59 boulder problems ranging from V0- to VHard. Those 59 boulder problems consisted of about 606 moves. After my training, I was pretty tired, I didn’t take many breaks and my whole body hurt. I’m not sure if anyone felt this post was useful but I get a lot of people asking me how I train. Today I decided to do Volume. Below, I’ve scanned in a picture of how I logged the problems, I wrote down the number of problems I did in a row, how many moves they were and at what time I finished that set. [singlepic id=20 w=320 h=240 float=]

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Comments (9)

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    Dom

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    nice! thanks for sharing sean.. inspiring for sure.. how do you train for limit strength?

    Reply

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    dom

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    Hi Sean, really interesting post, sounds like an intense training session! Good to hear you liked Leavenworth, FYI the possible FA left of the Hanta Man you put on your scorecard has been done before, its called Superman and goes at V11 I believe. There is still plenty of projects to go there though!

    Reply

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    Adam

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    Woah that’s a lot of problems man! It’d be interesting if there was a comp format in marathon style, instead of taking 5 highest-scoring problems you would just try to top out as many as possible in a day.

    Glad to hear you enjoyed Leavenworth. The season is definitely on down here.

    Reply

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    Sean McColl

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    Limit strength, I do campus board sometimes, a bit of rings, a bit of deadhangs.

    Thanks for the heads up for Levenworth, it’s awesome down there.

    Adam, there is a competition like that. I competed in it for the first time last year. They have 46 different problems and they take your top 46… Its hard

    Reply

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    Peter Cho

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    Helpful post, thanks. Do you follow a specific training regime or do you just climb until it hurts? I’d like to know what kind of training you do besides a shit load of climbing, if any. Campus board / other training equipment maybe once a week? And core?

    Reply

    • Avatar

      Sean McColl

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      I’ll try to write a few posts on how I train. I have a few different training days, sometimes I do routes, sometimes volume bouldering, sometimes lots of conditioning, it all depends on what time of year it is.

      Reply

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    Kevin

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    Hey Sean,

    I was wondering if you have time for an interview. It would be done by email. I’ll just send you a few questions. I started a site about bouldering and thought it would be cool to be able to go into the minds of some of the top climbers in the world. I’d appreciate it greatly.

    Reply

    • Avatar

      Sean McColl

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      I’m just leaving for Europe today, but I can do an interview once I’m there. My email is mccoll.sean (at) gmail.com. Send me an email and we can easily get in touch from there!

      Reply

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    Marc

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    thanks for posting, really great posts ! at least now i know something new. and i am Syked to go try a gym in Europe!! or go to my crag and repeat all the boulders i set up.

    all the best Sean, see you next year if you go to Boulder WCs

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