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    Notes and advice from Sean McColl.

Master of V11

It seems that this whole trip I can’t climb harder than V11. The closest problem I’ve been to sending is Ice Scream and I also think with a little more effort, I could do Li, Full Throttle and Slashface. The problem is that all the Volunteer tours are booked and Commercial tours just got jacked up to 30$ a person.

Yesterday, we had reservations for North so we went straight to the top of the chains. After a 30 minute warm up in the Gymnasium, we threw our pads in front of See Spot Run. I ran up the highball V6 and was about to try Barefoot when another problem caught my eye. Just across from See Spot Run, there was this perfect left hand crimp and other holds to follow. Near the back of the roof, there was another perfect starting hold. There was only chalk on the start holds so I chalked and brushed the others and started working the problem.. After a handful of tries, I sent the problem. The problem starts on a low undercling and using the pedestal, you reach over the lip and get a double toe hook. From that position, you come into an undercling under the lip, bring your feet out of the toe hooks and deadpoint a couple of feet to a good edge. Sonnie Trotter and Jamie Chong also send the problem in the next half an hour. One of the funny things about this soon to be classic problem is that we all did the problem with different sequences. Originally I thought the problem was V10 but after some discussion with Jamie and Sonnie, we settled on V9. I’m also not quote sure if this is even an FA so if you know of anyone else who’s done this problem, please let me know. Either way, the problem is still there, it’s not sharp and it’s fun to play around on. If it is indeed a FA, we decided to call it G Spot Fun because its near See Spot Run but a little bit harder to find.

Later in the day, we were up at Daily Dick Dose and I was trying a problem called Rogered in the Shower. When I was working on Alma Blanca, I’d try this problem a few times before giving up. After a few painful tries, I found the good undercling that you grab at the end of Alma Blanca. I decided to try and go that way next burn. First time trying to go to the undercling, I hesitated and went for the corner again. The second time, I sent it. What a relief! I look back on my previous 10+ tries and i shake my head when i realize i never once saw that undercling. When I got down from the problem, Jamie was interested in my new found beta, I sprayed him down move for move and he sent second go… Good job Jamie! After that, we went over to Martini Roof and played around until it got dark.

Today, we warmed up at Warm Up boulder then went straight to Choir Boys. Jamie was close to doing Luthor and Jason McColl wanted to try Choir Boys. After fumbling with the first couple of moves, I repeated Luthor first go. Jamie tried it a bunch of times in the space of an hour but was unsuccessful. I ran over and did Power of Silence and then headed back to the Martini Roof. I wanted to get on a problem that I had seen on 8a.nu called Litz Problem. From what I understood, it started on Dirty Martini and finished in the jug of Esperanza. On my flash attempt, I fell on the hueco of Right Martini. I figured out the top sequence and sent the problem second go. It was getting late but I jumped on Esperanza anyways. I still haven’t stuck the crux move but today I got the closest that I’ve ever gotten. When I was too tired to give serious tries on the crux move, I ran through the beginning moves and called it a day.

So far this trip, I haven’t sent anything harder than V11 (excluding repeat ascents). Hopefully I’ll have a couple good days on Esperanza… Tommorrow is Sonnie’s last day here so he’s going to climb on North Mountain while most of us take a rest day and just walk around. We’re also planning on hitting up an Outlet Mall about 45 minutes outside of El Paso.

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