Vail Finals

If you haven’t read up on Qualifiers and Semi finals, be sure to check out my first post HERE.

Between Semi-Finals (SF) and Finals (F), I had a lot on my mind. I was obviously worried about my knee, I needed to eat some food, I needed to rest a bit and I needed to be back in iso in 2 hours. It’s always like this between SF and Finals but it’s still a bit awkward. I iced my knee, ate food, rested and was feeling good. The time went fast and I was soon enough headed back to isolation.

I was still super warm from the previous round so I knew warming up was going to be a breeze. I had originally thought I’d tape my knee in dummy fashion (strips around the knee). Klaus said it might not be the best idea and offered to add some physio tape. In my head I was like “heck yes that pink tape stuff to look professional”! He also said it would help something in my leg attach something else. All I could think of was how cool I now looked with my pink band. I also knew that if my knee hurt, I would feel the pain which would hopefully stop me from doing anything crazy. I told myself if I saw any aggressive left heel hooks that I wouldn’t do it.

Presentation and observation was first once we got to the wall. Everything was very standard and I can tell you that once I previewed all 4 boulders, I wasn’t very excited to try them. The big reason was that they all kind of had left foot things, and a couple on heels. Already I was much less nervous than Hamilton and I felt like I was in a good head space. I had already proved to myself that I could get to finals, then of course the podium so I knew to just have fun and try the boulders.

F1 was a running dyno to what looked like a hard heel hook. F2 was a slab with a weird finish. It looked easy enough so we were pretty confused. The last move was also left foot so I wasn’t stoked. F3 was full slab with the last move all on the left foot again. I saw that and hoped it wasn’t too hard. Finally, F4 was a high start into some power moves and another heel hook (left of course) finish. I went back to isolation and didn’t know what to think. I told myself I’d try them all and if my knee hurt, I’d just try the boulder a different way.

The first one went pretty well. I knew most of the competitors had eventually done the dyno so I was excited. I dry-fired on the starting holds on my first attempt then had a few good goes on the dyno. I stuck the dyno on my 5th try and flashed the rest of the boulder. The heel hook at the top was very casual. I crimped like mad on the edge of the feature to take as much weight off my heel and switched to a toe as fast as I could.

Problem 1

F2 also gave some people some trouble. I went out last so I had a pretty good idea of who had done it. I guessed everyone had done it but took a varying amount of tries. After another terrible first go, I touched the dyno on my second go and stuck it on my third. Now came the top part. I went to the second to last hold and it wasn’t great.

I knew from here I needed to put my left heel matched on my hand. Because of my knee I just refused to do it, there had to be another way. I put my right leg on the zone hold and it felt pretty good. I launched up towards the last hold but didn’t think I’d stick it. I tried anyways but I was falling and I wasn’t too happy. It had cost me at least one attempt and I just hoped I could get up there again. If I got there again, I’d try the heel to see how it felt. Because my body knew the moves, I got up there on my next attempt. On the same hold as before, I put my left heel into place. I pulled close to the wall and I could feel my knee. I didn’t want to pull hard on it, but the competitor inside me was telling me to do it. In that position, I came up with another solution. I matched the hold as an undercling wrap and my left hand was free. I didn’t have to force on my knee and I could reach the last hold. To match, I swapped my feet so my right foot was on the hold again. Top secured!

Problem 2

To give some perspective on the other competitors, Guillaume from France had flashed both boulders and I was sitting at 2 tops in 9 tries. Jeremy Bonder had a similar score to mine with a couple more attempts. Dimitrii had 2 in 4 and Kilian and Kokoro had only 1 top after missing one of the boulders.

By the time my turn came on F3, lots had happened. Only Jeremy and Dimitrii had done the boulder which meant it was pretty hard. I also knew if I did it, I’d be 100% in the top-4.

I was a bit nervous for the initial moves but after doing a few other slabs this competition; I told myself it was all in my head. I imagined that my feet would never slip and it just seemed to work. I was soon on the last move which was a bit move into a good undercling.

It was off my left foot so I wasn’t too amuse but it had nothing to do with heel hooking so I was happy for that. I decided to do a dynamic move for the last hold because the hold looked so good for your thumb. My first try wasn’t great and I kind of just spun and fell. My second try was very similar to my first but I was a tiny bit closer. As I was falling I thought of putting my heel on and I knew I’d be trying that on my third try. I took a bit of time to analyze the heel hook. It was going to be blind, but the hold was pretty big and these moves aren’t too uncommon. The start of the boulder felt like walking by now and I just hoped the rubber on my shoes wasn’t too warm yet. I set up for the last move and felt confident. The move went fast, but everything worked out. I was still millimetres away from falling, but the heel hook kept my hips in and I didn’t rotate. The other hand came sailing in for the match and I knew I had pulled off being in the top four.

Problem 3

It wasn’t until now that I realized I could win the competition. It would take some luck, but it was possible. Basically if Dimitrii didn’t do F4 and I did, I’d win. For some reason it was impossible to tell if the men were sending the boulder or not. I knew for sure that Kilian did it, Kokoro and Jeremy hadn’t but I didn’t know for the other two. I thought it was only Kilian who had done it. In my mind, I came out thinking that if I did the problem, I’d win.

My first try was interesting. I tried reverse start first which I think was the way to do it. I got through the initial mantle and out a few holds. I got to the big move in the middle and completely missed the next hold. I was a good 2 inches to the left and not far enough. The move was big and hard but definitely possible.

My 2nd and 3rd tries weren’t very good. On the second go, I hadn’t jumped my right hand high enough and couldn’t get my foot on. I tried it pretty quickly right after but fell trying to brace myself into the roof. I needed to rest… I could feel the fatigue of the weekend starting to take its toll. I told myself it was one last try and to wait for the clock. It’s important to remember that I thought I was trying it for the win. To be one boulder away from a gold medal is crazy. I walked towards the boulder at 50 seconds and decided to wait until really the end. I paced back and forth to let out some energy and got ready for the last attempt. I left with some time to spare in case I jumped awkwardly into the start position. Everything went well and I was soon into the roof again. I matched the zone and knew where the next hold was. I committed to the move and hit it pretty well. As my feet swung, I felt like I was holding it until my left hand came off. I tried to hold the right arm lock off, but there was nothing for my left hand to come back into. I scraped the volume for some sort of opposition but then I was falling. I was sad, but not angry. To have that opportunity within reach is something that I live and compete for!

Problem 4

I went over to Kilian and he said I finished 3rd. At first I was a bit confused but then realized that Dimitrii AND Guillaume had both done it; hats off to them. If I would’ve done the 4th boulder, I’d have been 2nd, but the gold was always out of reach this boulder. I was happy, 3rd was amazing and I thought I climbed pretty well. Looking back over the finals I was a bit lucky as well. Jeremy from France was only 2 tries behind me and when there is a dyno and two slabs, 2 tries is mostly luck. Kilian had also fallen on the last move of F1, had he not fallen he also would’ve beat me.

To finish it off, I was also VERY nervous for the last move on F4. If I would’ve stuck that hold I touched, I’d have had to cross to a crimp and somehow move to the finish. From my preview, it was almost certainly an aggressive left hell hook. I really don’t know what would’ve happened if I’d have gotten there, but I’m kind of relieved that it panned out the way it did so I didn’t have to make that choice.

I finished the competition in 3rd place but I was over the moon. I felt like I was the most relaxed out of all the finals I’ve ever done. It’s nice to have found that inner peace so to say. On the women’s side, Akiyo was the only girl to have done 4 boulders with Fanny Gilbert of France coming 2nd with only two tops. Just behind her was Anna Stohr.

Full results for MEN are HERE. Full results for WOMEN are HERE.

Vail World Cup 2014

This past weekend was the annual world cup in Vail, Colorado. They are placed within the GoPro Mountain Games which used to be the Teva Mountain Games. When I got to Vail on Wednesday, the thing I noticed right away was the placement of the wall. It had been moved back into the central city area instead of 1km away in a parking lot. I knew right away that this year the crowd’s would be bigger and the overall event would be more easily accessible.

Qualifiers were Friday morning with men in the AM. I came out and wasn’t too impressed with Q1. They had figured out how to implement a running start within the rules. I was mad at first because the reason we got rid of them was to avoid ambiguity; in the end, it worked very well and it should be my job as athlete president for climbers to know how to start boulders like those. I flashed the start and took a few tries to complete the boulder.

Q2 was pretty standard for Vail. Just pull as hard as you can and you’ll be ok. There was a tricky match near the top, or if you were bigger you could do a little double clutch. I flashed Q2 as well as Q3 which was another standard Vail type problem.

Q4 was a bit stranger. I tried it a handful of times but could never complete it. It took me a couple of tries to get securely set on the bonus and by then I couldn’t engage my abs enough to control the swing and stick the foothold. It also didn’t help that just to match the zone I felt 100% extended and couldn’t move very freely. If I would’ve gotten to the zone on my first try I think I would’ve been fresh enough to stick the hard foot movement.

Q5 was a slab. My first try, all I could think about was how crappy the feet looked. I lost my balance just after zone and just walked off the boulder. My second try felt better and I was gaining confidence on my feet. I got to the last move but didn’t grab the volume with my hand. As I sailed up to the non-existent last hold, I had too much momentum and fell again. My third try was the winner. I started the boulder and just walked across the small feet. It’s crazy what a little bit of confidence will do on slabs. I grabbed the feature with my right hand and went as slow as I could towards the finish. 4 tops in 9 tries were enough for 8th spot, a great position moving into semi-finals.

To my dismay, no other Canadians men or women advanced to the semi-final round. Comparing the round to that of Hamilton, it felt (for the men) and looked (for the women) much harder.

Semi-finals (SF) were Saturday morning and I was feeling great. On the way to iso, I got my traditional Venti Long Americano with some syrup flavouring. Once that’s finished it’s time to warm up!

I came out after a great warm up and felt excited for the boulders. I had made finals the past two years here but in the end I knew I had to climb well to keep advancing. If I didn’t climb well, there was a chance I’d still advance but probably would be in the 8-15 range.

SF1 was a slab but it looked pretty comfortable. I pulled on, did a couple of hard moves and set up for the final dyno. It was further than I had originally thought, so I shuffled my feet a bit left and looked up. From there, there wasn’t much thinking involved, it was just “get to the hold”. I leaped and it felt far. As I jumped I thought for a second that my alignment was bad. When I grabbed the hold, I clenched as hard as I could with my fingers and felt my body secure on the wall. One Flash, 3 to go.

I came out for SF2 and it was another running start but looked easy. After that, there was a symmetrical middle section and a few power moves at the end. I started and made my way through the middle. I was thinking knee bars the whole way through because the next hold looked like a sloper. It took some time, but I eventually got my knee where I wanted it and the rest was easy. I was feeling so strong that I tried to lock off the last move. It was too far so I had to re-adjust my hand before going dynamically. A small error on my part, but I still flashed the boulder so no harm done.

Onto to problem 3, which I knew had seen an ascent. Because I heard the commentator saying there had been an ascent, in my head I thought that 3 boulders would be necessary for finals. As I previewed it, the start looked normal but the middle was strange. The boulder revolved around two big fin-like features. I figured it was a sort of mantle between the features. My first try ended up being very good and looking back at the video; I could’ve flashed it if I would’ve brought my left leg up into the drop knee instead of re adjusting my left hand to the pinch where I fell. I fell and thought I’d attack the problem another way. I went full left on my second try with a very aggressive high left heel hook. I started to rock over and adjusted my hands. As I was pulling, I heard and felt my knee crack a bit (like when you crack your knuckles). I let go and fell immediately. I’ve had a similar injury on my right knee on the same sort of movement. Although the sound wasn’t nearly as loud or sharp as when I injured my right knee I was still worried. No competition is worth injuring yourself for. I still had over 2 minutes left but I didn’t care. If I felt pain, I’d stop. I rubbed my knee to see if I felt pain and no pain was good. After 30 seconds had gone by, I did the squat test (jump up and down on one leg). I felt no pain so I went for a third attempt. When I injured my other knee a while back I couldn’t apply any weight to it for well over a day so I knew it wasn’t the same thing; it still scared me though. There was no way I’d try it as my second try, so I just decided to wing it. I pulled through the beginning and started to problem solve the middle. I tried a different sort of mantle but it didn’t really work. I went back to the semi good holds and knew I was getting tired. I busted out right to the volume and it felt decently good. As my Canadian friends cheered me on, I guessed this was the way to do it.

Here is the video queued up to my third attempt:

As I kept bumping left and right up the volumes I could eventually get my left foot on into a knee drop. From here things felt pretty good. I looked up and the holds were far away. I went as slow as possible to try and stand up a little more. I was at the maximum height I was going to get but the hold was too far, I decided to double dyno. I jumped for both holds and started falling. I tried to grab both holds just in case the opposition was enough to keep me on. To my surprised, the holds WERE good enough and I hadn’t fallen yet. I checked the time and it said 7 seconds; you’d think this was enough time to match the hold but when I couldn’t match for a few seconds I started to panic. I was afraid if I let go with my left hand I’d lose all opposition. As I skated around with my feet, I saw the other fin out left; I shot my left toe around the side of that while checking the left clock at the same time. 3 seconds it said, I had to match NOW. The foot was awesome and I matched milliseconds after. While matched I checked the right clock which now said 2 seconds and I knew the top was secured. I jumped off and felt good.

In between the 3rd and 4th boulder, I taped my knee as a precaution. The 4th one was a slab in a corner which was lucky for me. I flashed the bonus but couldn’t move from there. I got to the same spot 4 times on the boulder trying various different methods but in the end couldn’t really move. I finished my round with 3 tops in 5 tries and flashed all zones. The first thing on my mind was to get a physio to look at my knee. Klaus looked at it and told me what I had done. I injured it, but it’s nothing crazy, we’ll leave it at that. I did some stretches and he said it’d feel sore and tight the next day. By then the round was over and I saw that I had qualified first. I was thrilled to have made it to finals once again. After the Hamilton finals, I knew this one would be different.

Finals recap is now live, click HERE to read it.

Hamilton Finals

Qualification and Semi final recap can be found HERE.

As I stepped into finals isolation, I felt strong. I was still warm from the semi-final round. In between the two rounds, I had gotten something to eat, relaxed and played an online game with my cousin back in Vancouver. It was nice to just relax and get away from the competition for a bit. Now it was time to get back into the competition, I still had 4 boulder problems to do.

Soon enough, we were all warmed up heading out for presentation and observation. Being the lone Canadian in finals, I have to admit the cheers for me were maybe the biggest, at least among the men. We previewed the 4 boulders and they looked interesting. The first one was a slab corner with a dyno. The second one looked like a normal boulder. The third one was the strangest. It was a roof problem into a mantle. The roof was mainly just pressing out with your hands and looked a bit uncomfortable. The 4th and last boulder looked the best. Some crimps at the beginning, then some campusing and an easy top.

After digesting the 4 boulders, we started on boulder one. I was 5th out and got to climb the round with Shauna Coxsey from Great Britain. We had also climbed together in semi-finals and I had done pretty well. Among the girls, she gets a lot of love from the crowd, so I imagined that us climbing together could really generate some noise.

Of the first four men, no one had done the boulder. I came out and was pretty eager. I started reverse and had some trouble standing up. Once I was there, I flashed bonus but fell on the dyno. The second time I started the boulder the stand-up was painfully easy. The dyno was still the crux move for me. I got there another handful of times and was so so close. My last two tries were the best and I was mere millimetres away from sticking the jump. Jan Hojer who climbed just after me was the only male to complete boulder one.

On boulder two, I could tell that most of them had done the boulder with the exception of Rustam Gelmanov; I went out knowing it was possible. I spent most of time figuring out how to do the first move. What bugged me the most about the problem was that it seemed so much easier if you were tall. I try to forget about it and just focus on the boulder. Eventually I stuck the first move and fell on the next. From there I knew how to do the first move, it was a sort of double dyno. I waited for my last attempt and went. I stuck the first move and knew it would be my last try. I stuck the weird foot movement and moved into the big feature that was bonus. From there, there wasn’t a lot keeping me on the wall. You couldn’t really grab the holds, and the next one was a feature pinch. I moved my heel to a toe and the next one looked far. I had to jump for it but when I jumped I knew I wasn’t going to stick it. I tried my best but slowly slipped off. I was devastated; I knew no one else who got there had fallen. I could feel the anger setting in as I ran the numbers through my head. I grabbed my chalk bag, did my best to smile, gave a little wave to the crowd and went back to the isolation.

Boulder 2 (all queued up)

The next 20 minutes were hard for me. I was the maddest I’ve been in my whole competition career and I’ve done over 100 competitions. I knew Jan had two tops, and another 3 competitors had 1. It was going to take a huge comeback for me to be in the top-3. The part that made me so angry was that I couldn’t shake the concept of being screwed over by my height. I took the 4 climbers that had done the boulder (James Kassay 6”0, Jan Hojer 6”0, Jongwon Chon Fellow 5”11, Guillaume Glairon-Mondet 5”10) and compared it to the climbers who hadn’t done it (Rustam Gelmanov 5”6, myself 5”6 ½). I imagined that the tall climbers could keep their foot on for the move that I fell and it was the jump that hosed me. I sat there in my self-pity for what seemed to be a long time. No one talked to me, which was probably a good thing. After a while, I tried to re-focus. I was in Canada competing in a world cup and I was already in finals. I kept telling myself that the crowd didn’t care where I finished, just that they got a good show, or something like that. It made me feel better. I’d be a huge hypocrite if I just gave up; I’m always telling people to enjoy the process, enjoy being in finals and smile and wave. I promised myself I would enjoy the last two boulders no matter what happened. I could tell the 3rd problem was hard, but still getting done. Because I had no tops, I wasn’t really looking at how fast anyone did it, mostly just if they were doing it or not. I knew the boulder was possible so I tried to think of that.

I went out and running on the mats, taking in the crowd and waving made me feel better. I took a few deep breaths and tried to focus on the boulder at hand. It was a reverse start and something I haven’t really done in competition. It was basically traversing facing the crowd into a mantle. I did the first few moves much easier than I had thought and was close to the lip. I found some cool positions and went toe hook feet first into the bonus. I felt like I was climbing smart and efficient. Now came time for the mantle. I threw my right foot over the volume because that’s my strong side. I went from feeling good, to feeling awkward to a struggling feeling. It wasn’t working, I wasn’t getting high enough. I grabbed the intermediate but it didn’t do anything. I made the decision, it was time to reverse. Reversing the movement was just as hard as going up in the first place; I had now been climbing for roughly a minute. I wrapped my legs around the massive hold and steadied my breathing. It was time for the other leg, my “weaker” side. I did similar movements and it didn’t seem to be working any better. I finally got so tired, I couldn’t really move anymore. I looked up and the final hold was in reach. I knew the whole time I was mantling that the hard part would be matching the final hold, not just 1-handing it. I reached up and the last hold was bad as expected. I was pleasantly surprised that the bolt hole felt sharp. I clenched my whole body on the volume and released my right hand. I knew I was going to do it, unless something crazy slipped. I matched the final hold and let out a big roar. I had topped a problem and was thrilled. After the match I just leaned backwards and fell on my back. The crowd was going crazy and I was exhausted. I got up and could feel the energy from the crowd; they were feeding off my struggle and rewarding me with cheers.

Problem 3 (all queued up)

With the one flash, a lot came back into play. On top of it, Jan couldn’t do the mantle which brought the Gold medal position back into play. From what I had gathered, Gui-Gui Jan and Jongwon had 2 tops in whatever. I was in 4th with a flash, but James also had a top. Rustam hadn’t had a great finals yet with 0 tops. As the competitors started the last boulder, the math became easier and easier. Gui-Gui was first and sent the boulder. He had 3 tops and would beat me for sure. Rustam flashed it as well, but I was still ahead of him. I thought James had 2 tops, but in reality he had one. Jongwon also couldn’t do the last problem which opened up the podium for me. I just had to do the boulder and I’d be on the podium. In my mind I was shooting for 3rd, because I knew Jan would also do the boulder.

I came out and I was motivated. It was one of those boulders where you basically have 2 tries, plus one at the very end as a maybe. I started the boulder and the first move was pretty basic. I crimped the left hand as hard as I could while jumping to the next. I grabbed the zone and reached out right. This move was going to be hard. It was a campus but I just needed to tense my right arm. Just don’t let go I said. I campused down and was now on the “crux” move. I was campusing off two good holds and I knew the next one was good as well, it was a distance thing. I started my momentum and swing in the right direction. One pump, two, on the third I knew I was going for it. Everything worked perfectly. I had enough swing to get the distance, I could feel the energy running through my body and I exploded out right. My left hand stayed on the wall and I felt a jug on my right hand. I knew the boulder was done; I had done it, a podium after such a crushing start.

Problem 4 (all queued up)

As I let go of my left hand, I was one arm campusing. I clenched my fist but held back too much celebrating. Save it for once I’ve matched the finish I said to myself. My left foot went up and I cruised to the finish. I matched the hold and started to scream. It was official in my mind; I had secured my 3rd spot.

I turned to face the crowd on top of my boulder and started screaming. The position was so comfortable and it was such a nice feeling looking over the crowd. Everyone was cheering and people were starting to stand up. From the presentation, I knew where my mom was sitting so I scoured the crowd and found her. The look on her face was nothing but joy. She looked so proud to see what I had just done and was close to tears. I felt like it was appropriate so I just stuck out my arm and started pointing at her. Everything was in slow motion and I couldn’t have been happier. I scream because I’m happy and shake my fist because it feels just so right in those moments.

I jumped down to Pete Woods on the MC and gave him a hi-5. I waved at the crowd, kept them cheering and passed them off to Shauna who had fallen on her last boulder.

The IFSC judge Graeme Alderson told me I was in 2nd, but I knew Jan just needed a top to put me to 3rd. Jan sent the boulder 2nd try after a small slip on the first move. Funny enough that slip cost Jan the gold.

In the end Gui-gui had won his 3rd boulder world cup, Jan was 2nd and I came 3rd. Some other fun facts were that if I hadn’t of slipped off the top of boulder 2, OR had done the dyno, I would’ve won! Always fun to look to see how close it really was.

On the women’s side, I had no idea what was going on. I knew all their boulders were being sent and Alex was in the lead with 4 tops in 11. Shauna fell a couple of times on their last boulder but on her last attempt put forth an amazing attempt to secure her 1st or 2nd place. Akiyo came out last, sent the boulder and secured her win.


Akiyo won with 4 tops in 5, Shauna was 2nd with 4 tops in 7 and Alex took bronze with 4 tops in 11.

Full results for the MEN can be found HERE. WOMENS are HERE.