• FAQ

    FAQ

    Got Questions?

FAQ

I’ve had a lot of great questions on my “ask” page but I find that some people ask the same questions. I realize that it would take a long time to read all of them so here are the top-5 questions that have been asked. If you have other questions, please post them to the “ask” page, or click HERE.

Q: What is your height and weight?

A: I am 168cm (5 foot 6 inches) and 59kg (130 lbs)

Q: What does your diet consist of?

A: Diet is very important and only something I realized in the last lalf decade of my career, thanks to my close friends.
Well balanced is key; lots of fruit and vegetables, don’t miss food groups, eat 4 times a day, protein, hydration, low sugar, low salt, low fat (not too low…).
Breakfast: Cereal, Bread, Fruit, Coffee
Lunch: Protein, Carbs, Vegetable, Water
Snack: Fruit, Fibre, Water
Dinner: Protein, Vegetables, Bread, Water
Dessert: Yogurt, Musli, Fruit

Q: What is the best way to train / get stronger / get better / improve?

A: Get a training partner, create a training schedule and follow it!

Q: Do you prefer Lead or Bouldering?

A: I don’t prefer either, I love the switch. When I get tired of Bouldering, I look forward to the Lead season knowing I’ll be very physically strong and weaker at just the endurance part. When I get sick of Lead, it’s because I want to do phsically hard moves and I move back into campus board, dead hangs and pure bouldering movement.

Q: Why do you climb so fast?

A: This is a complex answer. I’ll start by saying that I boulder for the first 6 months of the year so I’m physically as strong as I’ll be move by move. When I start lead climbing, all I need to do is to push the maximum number of moves I can do in a row upwards. I also know that time is against me in my style of climbing. If I can get to the hard crux moves in 90 seconds vs 180, I’m that much fresher. I’ve tested it for years and I’ve found that I can climb 30 or so moves without getting too pumped regardless of the difficulty. If I climb slowly on a 7b or an 8b I get pumped, if I climb fast sometimes I don’t. I focus on keeping a good rhythm and conserving energy. I try to execute good decisions and keep calm.

Q: Being a shorter competitor, how do you compensate?

A: I focus on having a very tight core including abs, shoulders and compression. I try to know exactly what I’ll be trying to do and have lots of options to explore if my original method goes awry.

If I haven’t answered your question here, please check out the “ask” page which can be found HERE.

Comments (22)

  • Avatar

    Ludovic

    |

    Hi Sean,

    First of all, congratulation for everything you’ve done, you are an awesome climber/boulderer and it’s so good watching you ! Thank you to share everything with your fan, you make us want to be better and stronger !

    I’d like to know, when you train (bouldering for example), how many times a week do you train and for how long each day ? Share us your week to see how to be good like you ! 🙂

    Thank you Sean,

    Ludovic.

  • Avatar

    Joseph Scarlett

    |

    Hey man, first off I get soo psyched off your traing videos! Your a beast in the gym and it shows at comps! So ive been climbing about a year now, and trying to get more into the training aspect of things. Ive always played sports and have been really competitive at anything I do. Im 20 now, do you think I have any chance at being able to compete at the world cup level or do you think I started too late? Thanks man! Best of Luck to you in the rest of 2013 and on!

    • Avatar

      Ludovic

      |

      I’m 24 (climb for 7 yrs) and I ask myself the same question…

    • Avatar

      Laura

      |

      Courtney Saunders, Daniel Woods’ wife, started when she was 20. Now she’s 24 and climbs V11. I think there’s hope!:)

  • Avatar

    John Meget

    |

    When you are preparing for the boulder season, how many hours do you spend each day actually climbing? How much time do you spend each day doing related training, e.g. stretching, campus/fingerboard, core, etc?

    Thanks again, Sean. You’re offering us a great service with your answers.

    • Avatar

      Sean McColl

      |

      I’ll train 3-4 days a week and I’ll only do full bouldering workouts on 1 or 2 of those days. On days I do campus board or finger workouts, I warmup, do a few hard boulders (so still a bit of bouldering) then I switch into my other training for the day.

  • Avatar

    Jeffrey Breeden

    |

    Hi Sean,

    My name is Jeffrey Breeden, I’m the Senior Casting Producer for American Ninja Warrior in the USA.

    We are potentially doing an international version of the show, and I wanted to see if you were interested in participating in our show?

    I don’t have exact dates, but it’s tentatively scheduled for mid-June.

    Let me know if you are interested in participating and we can chat more.

    Thanks so much!

    Jeffrey Breeden
    Senior Casting Producer
    American Ninja Warrior
    +1 856 265 0047

    • Avatar

      Sean McColl

      |

      Hi Jeffrey,

      I would be very interested! I’ll send you an email.

      Thanks!
      Sean

  • Avatar

    John Meget

    |

    I noticed that one of the WC sites this year in China will hold both boulder and lead events, all in just three days time. Is it possible to take part in both events, or will you have to choose one or the other? If you have to choose, will you pick boulder over lead?

    • Avatar

      Sean McColl

      |

      They’ll figure it out so it’s possible to do all events. I plan on doing all 3, and if I have to choose 2, then I’ll do boulder and lead.

  • Avatar

    aref

    |

    Hi Sean
    My name ir Aref from Iran , I’m a rock climber and I have 17 years old.
    I going to participate to a Boldering competition for next mont , the last line I’ve ever climbed was 7b.
    Would you mind give me a schedule for this competition.
    Thank you

    • Avatar

      Sean McColl

      |

      Unfortunately what you’re looking for is a coach. I’d recommend training 3-4 days a week on areas you need to work on!

      Good luck.

  • Avatar

    Vlad

    |

    Hello!
    Is possible to train with you onetime ?

    • Avatar

      Sean McColl

      |

      Maybe, gotta find me in the gym one time.

  • Avatar

    Eric

    |

    Hi Sean, Congrats on ANW.
    Do you ever do presentations or slide shows at events? I am running a speaker series in Whistler and as you sometimes visit Vancouver was hoping I could time one of your visit with a presentation to a Whistler audience? We would pay you for your time, accommodation etc
    Thanks
    Eric

    • Avatar

      Sean McColl

      |

      Thanks for the message, I will email you.
      Sean

  • Avatar

    Ning Agbay

    |

    Hi Sean,

    Congratulations on all your achievements! Just finished watching your run on ANW. Wow!

    My mom and I were wondering about your ancestry. I did a quick scan of various sites to see if the info was already out there, but I didn’t see it. Your name sounds Irish but you look Asian. I’m guessing Chinese somewhere in background? (based on you being from Vancouver and having gone to eat dim sum and I’m guessing you also had to take piano lessons…)

    Thanks,
    Ning (another person with confusing name ancestry)

    • Avatar

      Sean McColl

      |

      Pretty good analysis. I’m half Chinese, half Caucasian. With the McColl, yes there’s some Scottish somewhere back there, I think my Grandfather was half. Yes, also took piano lessons, completed Grade 9 Royal Conservatory!

      • Avatar

        Ning Agbay

        |

        Awesome! You’re a great role model for my kids who are also half and half. The fact that you’ve accomplished so much already…fantastic!

        How did you fit in a CS degree with professional rock climbing? Or did you turn pro after college?

        • Avatar

          Sean McColl

          |

          It was the hardest part of my life for sure. Trying to balance school, training, homework, sleep and friends was very hard. I even had to stop my one time a week part time job. Also throw in the 3 months I’d spend in Europe during the summer!

          That being said, I don’t regret it for a moment. Completing my CS was one of the smartest choices I’ve made, I always encourage people to go to school, only if they want to of course.

  • Avatar

    Melissa Yip

    |

    Hi Sean, just saw u on ninja warrior. awesome job. You are fast. Wow I have never done rock climbing before. Seems like a way to get in shape. I a boxer. But its been awhile. How would a beginner start. Im 30 yrs old its that too old to start and live san antonio tx so no mountain here. Lol thanks God Bless Melissa Ann Yip 🙂

    • Avatar

      Sean McColl

      |

      To start climbing, I suggest finding the local climbing gym, get a few buddies together and try it out! You never how much you’ll like it until you start trying it.

Comments are closed