I’ve had a lot of great questions on my “ask” page but I find that some people ask the same questions. I realize that it would take a long time to read all of them so here are the top-5 questions that have been asked. If you have other questions, please post them to the “ask” page, or click HERE.
Q: What is your height and weight?
A: I am 169cm (5 foot 6½ inches) and 60kg (132 lbs)
Q: What does your diet consist of?
A: Diet is very important and only something I realized in the last lalf decade of my career, thanks to my close friends.
Well balanced is key; lots of fruit and vegetables, don’t miss food groups, eat 4 times a day, protein, hydration, low sugar, low salt, low fat (not too low…).
Breakfast: Cereal, Bread, Fruit, Coffee
Lunch: Protein, Carbs, Vegetable, Water
Snack: Fruit, Fibre, Water
Dinner: Protein, Vegetables, Bread, Water
Dessert: Yogurt, Musli, Fruit
Q: What is the best way to train / get stronger / get better / improve?
A: Get a training partner, create a training schedule and follow it!
Q: Do you prefer Lead or Bouldering?
A: I don’t prefer either, I love the switch. When I get tired of Bouldering, I look forward to the Lead season knowing I’ll be very physically strong and weaker at just the endurance part. When I get sick of Lead, it’s because I want to do phsically hard moves and I move back into campus board, dead hangs and pure bouldering movement.
Q: Why do you climb so fast?
A: This is a complex answer. I’ll start by saying that I boulder for the first 6 months of the year so I’m physically as strong as I’ll be move by move. When I start lead climbing, all I need to do is to push the maximum number of moves I can do in a row upwards. I also know that time is against me in my style of climbing. If I can get to the hard crux moves in 90 seconds vs 180, I’m that much fresher. I’ve tested it for years and I’ve found that I can climb 30 or so moves without getting too pumped regardless of the difficulty. If I climb slowly on a 7b or an 8b I get pumped, if I climb fast sometimes I don’t. I focus on keeping a good rhythm and conserving energy. I try to execute good decisions and keep calm.
Q: Being a shorter competitor, how do you compensate?
A: I focus on having a very tight core including abs, shoulders and compression. I try to know exactly what I’ll be trying to do and have lots of options to explore if my original method goes awry.