After a couple of weeks to decompress, move from Toulouse to Chambery, attend the Plenary Assembly for the IFSC and start training again my days have been very filled.
The day I got back to Europe, I moved with Mathilde Becerra to Chambery where we will stay for as long as we see fit. We have an awesome apartment, a great view and the average temperature here is lower than in Toulouse so I’ll be able to sleep better at night. (I’m a warm sleeper) I’ve had the chance to go to the gym a handful of times and it’ll be pretty easy to train while I’m here. They have tons of hard boulders set in a world cup style; they have a campus board and a few hang boards to do dead hangs. I love the first time you get to a gym and you have to look around to see how you’ll train.
The main purpose of this post is to highlight the boulders I did in Hueco Tanks. I was there for 2 weeks, staying at the Value Place and although I didn’t try a few boulders I want to do, I still walked away with a pretty good sheet. The ascents include the following:
- Top Sirloin 8B+, V14 FA
- Too Many Martinis 8B+, V14
- Coeur De Leon 8B, V13
- Li 8B, V13
- Sarah Jessica Parker 8B, V13
- Thrilla Manilla 8B, V13
- Phantom Limb 8A+, V12 Flash
- Liane 8A, V11
- El Condor Pasa (“Escape Velocity”) 8A, V11 Flash
- Better Build Your Woodies 8A, V11
I’m pretty stoked on the ascents that I did. There were a few boulders that I wanted to try again (including Slashface and Evangalion) but didn’t get out on tours that were headed in that direction. I also fell on Full Throttle a few times going into the start holds of Dry Dock, c’est la vie…
I tried The Machinist for the first time, scoped out a few lines that I’d like to try and overall really enjoyed my trip to Hueco. I managed to film a few good lines and made the first of a few videos that I released on my YouTube Page. I’ll embed my most recent one below.
I also attended the Hueco Rock Rodeo in the middle of my trip which was hard to recover from. For those of you who don’t know about the rodeo, it’s basically an outdoor redpoint competition. You have the whole day to redpoint 6 boulder problems on various mountains. They choose the mountain the night before and give you a list of the problems you can try. Obviously if you’ve done the boulders on the list, you can probably repeat them on comp day. The hardest part was that this year it was very warm on comp day and some problems were just impossible for me. You can check out my video of that as well which should be just below.
As I said above, I’m now back in France. My first World Cup of the year will most likely be in Grindelwald unless I decide to go to Azerbaijan to compete in their world cup as well. The Visa for that country is expensive and an interesting process. Over the next couple of weeks I’m looking to release more footage of me climbing in Las Vegas and more in Hueco Tanks. Also going to be adding some older footage that I forgot about until now!
Stay tuned for that!